Hello friends, welcome once again to my site, 'The Press Voice.' Today, we will be exploring 'Plackets, Zippers, and Pockets,' discussing their various types and methods of application.
As I detailed in my previous article—which you can read there—I covered garment technology and pressing technology within the garment industry in depth.
So, without wasting time, let's get started!
Plackets
Plackets are finished openings created to allow for easy putting on and taking off of a garment. When the garment is in use, the placket is typically held closed with fasteners such as zips, buttons, etc.
They are used on waistlines, necklines, sleeves (wrists), and other tight-fitting parts of the garment.
A Placket can be created in a seam or in an opening on the left side of a slash cut in a garment.
The former is stronger and gives a better finish when completed. Unless used as a decorative element in a garment, a placket should be as inconspicuous and flat as possible.
In women's clothing, the Placket should be lapped from right to left, and in men's clothing, from right to left.
Except for zip plackets, one or two facing components are used to finish the edges of the placket opening.
Types and Uses of Plackets
The following are the different types of Plackets and their uses:
Faced Placket
Faced plackets are used in the front or back neckline for short openings. A separate placket piece is sewn in place first and then cut out. The self-material is used with a lining in a fine material.
Two Piece Placket
A two-piece placket is typically used on outerwear with a loose fit. Two separate pieces of self-material (facings) are used to construct this placket: a smaller width for the facing and a wider width for the bound.
When finishing this placket on zibbas and sleeves, the wider width overlaps the narrow facing piece.
The end ends up in a square or friendly (triangular) shape. When the placket is used at the waistline, the narrow piece overlaps the bound piece. The locket is sewn onto the end of the placket.
Italian Placket
The Italian placket is similar to a two-piece placket. The only difference is that both pieces are the same width. It is commonly used for sleeve openings and half-open shirts on men's shirts, as well as on children's clothing.
Continuous Placket
Continuous plackets are used in slashes. They are best suited for full-gathered sections and also on umbrella skirts, children's dresses, and sleeve cuffs. The placket strip (facing) is cut in the direction corresponding to the width of the self-material. It is not suitable for curved or bulky fabrics.
One Piece Placket
One-piece plackets are used only on shirt sleeves. One side is a self-hem and the other is a bound piece, which can be square or V-shaped for a better look.
Zipper
Zipper can be finished with a variety of zippers. The basic type of zipper is the chain zipper, a medium-weight zipper with metal or plastic teeth that closes at the bottom end.
Zippers are opened and closed by a slider that moves up and down. A top stop and a bottom stop prevent the slider from slipping out of the zipper.
There are several ways to insert a zipper; the method depends on the position in the garment and the type of garment.
Generally, zippers are either concealed within a lapped seam—where only a single row of stitching is visible—or they are centered beneath a channel seam, flanked by two rows of stitching. In certain garments, there is also a deliberate desire to keep the zipper visible.
The centered application of a zipper can be either a visible or an invisible application. It is typically constructed within the center front or center back section of the garment.
Types of Zipper and Their Uses
Invisible or Concealed Zippers
Invisible or concealed zippers are a type of coil zipper and have teeth that are hidden on the bottom, so that the zipper is invisible from the inside.
Open End Zippers
Open-end zippers are open at both ends, typically long and heavy. They are primarily used on jackets, tracksuit tops, waistcoats, shirts, etc.
The open-end zipper application is a specialized type of application wherein both sides of the zipper open completely and are sewn separately into the two sides of the placket. This method is commonly utilized in outerwear.
Lapped Zipper
A lapped zipper application is typically constructed along a seam line. In this method, one section of the zipper is attached so that it projects onto the underlap layer, while the other section is sewn onto the corresponding overlapping layer of the garment's placket.
Ladder or Coil Zippers
Ladder or coil zippers consist of synthetic coils of polyester or nylon connected by woven tape. They also close at one end.
A pocket is a small pouch sewn into a garment for carrying money, handkerchiefs, etc. In addition to this functional purpose, pockets are also made for decorative purposes. Their size, shape, and placement should be considered, as they attract attention.
The position of the pocket should be at a level that is comfortable for the hand to reach. If it is on an upper-body garment, it should be at the chest line or just below the waistline.
For lower-body garments (skirts or trousers), the position is at the back or front hip line, and also on the side seam just below the waistline. However, for decorative purposes, it can be placed anywhere according to fashion, for example, above the knee or elbow.
Children love to have pockets in their dresses. These pockets can be designed in various shapes and sizes with decorative details such as lace, ruffles, tucks, pleats, embroidery, and more.
Types of Pockets and Their Uses
The following are the different types of Pockets and their uses:
Slashed Pockets
Slashed pockets are used just above the chest line, waistline, and hip line. They are made by cutting fabric for the pocket mouth. The edges are then finished in various ways.
In this type of pocket, the pocket pouch hangs over the wrong side of the garment. The lower raw edge can be finished with a lip piece covering the upper raw edge.
Welt Pockets
If the lip piece is wide, the pocket is called a welt pocket. Here, the lip piece should be made of width-wise material.
Bound Pockets
If the lip piece is narrow, it is known as a bound pocket. For this, the lip piece should be made of lengthwise material. This finishing method is similar to a bound buttonhole and can be single or double-piece.
Flap Pockets
It is also possible to finish the upper raw edge with a flap covering the lower raw edge. This type of pocket is known as a flap pocket, which is suitable for coats and pants.
Inseam Pockets
Inseam pockets are always sewn into the garment. The pocket piece also hangs down on the wrong side of the garment. This pocket is placed at the hip level of the side seam on skirts and trousers.
Front Hip Pockets
A front-hip pocket starts at the waist and ends at the side seam of the lower garment.
The pocket mouth can be finished in a straight, diagonal, or curled shape.
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