Pressing Technology in Garments Industry: Tools, Equipment & Techniques

Pressing garments is important during and at the end of production to shape them and achieve a better finish. Pressing is also essential to give garments a shine for better presentation and packaging.

Classifications of Pressing

Pressing can be classified into two types:

a. Under Pressing

b. Top Pressing.

Under Pressing

This is the term used to describe pressing operations performed on garments while they are being manufactured. 

For example, when making a shirt, the pockets should be pressed to achieve a good shape before attaching them to the front.

Top Pressing

This refers to finishing operations that occur after a garment has been fully assembled. For example, a fully sewn top is pressed for the packing process.

Both of the above groups include a large number of processes. The individual processes and their applications are determined by the fabric, quality, and design of the garment. However, the following basic components of pressing are the same.

Components of Pressing

The following components are the most important in pressing:

Steam

Steam and heat are necessary to relax the fabric and make it flexible enough to form the correct shape and size of the garment. 

The combined effect of steam and heat is to slightly soften the structure of the fabric to achieve the desired effect.

Pressure

When the fabric is loosened, steam pressure is applied, which sets the fibers in their new position. An example of the combination of steam and pressure is to press out a crease in trousers.

Drying

After steam and pressure have been applied, the component or garment must be dried and cooled to return the fabric to its normal moisture content and stable state. 

This is achieved by vacuum action, which removes excess water from the fabric while simultaneously cooling it. For some pressure operations, hot air or infrared heating is used instead of vacuum for drying.

Time

The length of time a garment is subjected to steam, pressure, and drying depends on the fabric and the part being pressed; there is an optimal time for each component.

Pressing Machinery and Equipment

The design and development of pressing machinery and equipment has never ceased since the invention of the first mechanically operated pressing machine in 1905. 

Today, there are over 500 different types of general and special-purpose pressing machines, ranging from simple operations to combination machines capable of performing every operation required for a garment (e.g., men's jackets). 

Some items of machinery and equipment in common use are:

Electric Irons

These are lightweight irons, weighing approximately 1.4 kilograms, featuring a temperature range between 70 and 240 degrees Celsius and electronic temperature controls with a reliable accuracy of ±3 degrees Celsius. 

Irons of this type are manufactured in various shapes and are primarily utilized for smoothing and finishing operations in environments where steam is available. 

If, for any reason, additional moisture is required—even if not strictly necessary—distilled water can be finely misted onto the work area using a spray gun powered by compressed air.

Electric Steam Irons

Electric steam pressing machines are widely utilized across various industries. These represent the most commonly used type of handheld iron and are employed for a diverse range of operations, particularly those requiring low-pressure application. 

A steam pressing machine typically consists of an iron unit, a steam generation unit, and an exhaust system. In this setup, purified water is converted into steam to press the garments.

The iron unit contains a heating element, and steam is fed into the iron's internal steam chamber from either a central or an independent boiler. 

The steam is superheated by the heating element and released as needed through perforations drilled into the iron's soleplate. A micro-switch, conveniently positioned either on the side of or within the handle, controls the release of steam. 

Additionally, an exhaust system—typically featuring a fan located beneath the pressing table—is employed to draw the steam-laden air through the garment being pressed.

These machines are also equipped with well-cushioned ironing tables, often including an attached sleeve board. 

The advantages of using a steam pressing machine include:

1. Lightweight design
2. Ease of operation, making it suitable for female operators as well
3. No need for manual water application
4. Produces a superior finish
5. Yields significantly higher production output

Note: A critical requirement for this machine is proper and diligent maintenance; failure to do so could result in a major accident, such as a boiler explosion.

Hot Air Irons

In this system, air is heated, and this hot air is utilized for pressing purposes. This method is not widely popular, as it involves a less effective and more complex mechanism.

Ironing Board / Pressing Table (Foldable): This consists of a flat, rigid board typically constructed from wood or metal. 

The board is padded with cotton and covered with a cotton fabric; it is mounted on an adjustable stand that allows for height modification.

Tailor's Ham

This is a firmly stuffed cushion featuring rounded ends. It is used to press shaped areas—such as bust darts and curved seams—and is also utilized for molding corners.

Point Presser

This is a pointed wooden board used to press seams within collars and to help bring out sharp points in collars, cuffs, and similar areas.

Sleeve Board

This is a board featuring a narrow, long, and flat surface, upon which seams and details of narrow garment sections—such as sleeves and trouser legs—can be easily pressed.

Needle Board

This is a board consisting of a collection of small needles embedded in a wooden base. It is used for pressing pile and nap fabrics (such as corduroy and velvet).

Pressing—both during and after sewing—is an equally important process. Pressing eliminates wrinkles, sharpens creases, flattens bulky layers, and opens up seams. However, pressing can also cause the fabric to either shrink or stretch.

The main factors involved are heat, pressure, and humidity. These factors must be compatible with the fabric being pressed.

Differences between ironing and pressing

Ironing is the process by which an iron is pushed along the fabric, either lengthwise or horizontally. Ironing is used after the garment has been manufactured.

Ironing is the process by which an iron is moved in a series of up and down, lengthwise, and horizontal motions across the fabric. All garments are pressed during the manufacturing process.

Safety precautions

The following safety precautions are observed during pressing:

1. Do not let the iron cord touch your work.
2. Depending on the type of iron you have, either use an iron stand or tilt the iron when not in use.
3. Don't burn the ironing board cover. If starch gets stuck to the iron, let it cool and then clean it with soap, non-scratch polish, or baking soda.
4. Use distilled water for steam irons; empty the iron when you're done.
5. Ensure there is no electrical leakage between the iron, cord, or plug pins.
6. Never leave the hot surface of the iron on the ironing table or fabric. The iron should be kept upright while ironing.
7. Set the regulator or control on your iron correctly for the less heat-resistant fibers in your fabric. Temperatures are not always clearly marked on the iron dial, but should be graded from hot to cool in this order: linen, cotton, rayon, wool, silk, nylon (and other synthetic fibers).
8. Wet ironing can be done easily with a steam iron. Alternatively, spray water directly onto the fabric and let it sit for a minute before ironing.
9. Another method of wet ironing is using a damp cloth. This is used for linen or wool. Some fabrics, such as spun rayon, embossed, and glazed fabrics, may be better suited to dry ironing. 

Techniques for pressing during construction

1. Pressing basting along the edges of attached seams, pleats, or hems is often necessary. After the first light dry pressing, clip the basting before setting the marks on the fabric, remove it, and press again with damp cloth. Never press over pins.
2. Press with the grain, even on bias components.
3. Rest the scissors on the pressboard to remove any tension from points that are not cut tightly enough. Corners or curbs that need to be trimmed or cut closely are less likely to tear if they are wetted and pressed thoroughly before cutting.
4. After ironing a piece of fabric, pin it to a coat hanger or carefully spread it out to dry so you don't have to iron it again.
5. The fold is gathered firmly along the stitching line in your left hand. Reduce the heat for slower work.
6. When ironing down the seams, hold the edge of the iron parallel to the stitching line.
7. Press-on buttons, embroidery, lace, beading, and braiding should be ironed from the wrong side on a soft pad, such as layers of Turkish towel.
8. Press the collar, cuffs, belt, and pockets wrong side out first, then very lightly turn them right side out on a press cloth. Press the edges firmly first, then remove the basting press. Work from the outer edges inward.