The term "garment technology" can generally be defined as the study of the technical details of the operations and processes of mass production in ready-made garment factories.
Nowadays, numerous garment industries are emerging across the globe, manufacturing and exporting a wide variety of clothing for men, women, and children. Ready-made garments are also produced for domestic markets worldwide.
A student of Garment Technology must study the entire process within the garment industry, as well as the usage of the various machines involved.
Working Behavior of Export Houses
Export houses receive orders from foreign buyers through various forms of communication, such as the internet, online contacts, trade shows, etc.
After order confirmation, patterns are prepared in the required sizes and according to the measurements and specifications.
With the help of pattern grading, patterns are graded into various required sizes. Samples are prepared in the required sizes, meeting the buyer's specifications, including fabric type and packing, and sent for buyer approval.
After sample confirmation, the purchasing department will purchase the raw materials and accessories required for the specific order. The received raw materials are inspected in stores, and the fabric is sent for cutting.
In the cutting section, fabrics are arranged one above the other for bulk cutting, a process known as 'spreading.' After spreading, the pattern is arranged on the laid fabric, and the arrangement of the pattern on the laid fabric is known as 'pattern layout.'
The peripherals of the pattern are marked with marking chalk and cut using cutting machines. In modern industries, computerized pattern making, grading, marker planning, and cutting can all be done in a single process.
To avoid shade variations, the cut components are assigned serial numbers in the numbering process. The cuts are then moved to the sewing section.
In the sewing section, the cut components of a garment are mixed and bundled in the sorting process. The bundles are then released for sewing. The sewing department, also known as the "production department," oversees the actual manufacturing process.
The components are stitched using a variety of sewing machines to form the garment. After sewing, excess, uncut, or protruding threads are removed in the trimming section.
All garments are then preliminarily inspected, and any sewing defects are corrected with necessary alterations. If laundering is required, the garments are transferred to the washing section and washed.
The garments are then moved to the finishing section. There, the garments are re-inspected, a process called "mid-inspection."
The fabrics are pressed in the pressing section and neatly packaged according to the buyer's specifications. The final inspection process is carried out by both the export house and the buyer.
After receiving the buyer's approval, the goods are finally cleared for shipment.
The entire process can be easily understood with the help of the following flow chart.
Process Flow Chart
Orders from Buyers
↓
Pattern Preparation
↓
Pattern Grading
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Sample Preparation
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Sample Confirmation
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Raw Material Procurement
↓
Fabric Cutting
↓
Numbering
↓
Grading
↓
Sewing
↓
Trimming
↓
Preliminary Checking
↓
Washing
↓
Intermediate Inspection
↓
↓
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Shipment
Bar Tacking Machine
- This is a variation of the lockstitch machine in which a few stitches are sewn at the point and then a cornering stitch is sewn above and at right angles to the first stitch.
- This machine has a capacity of 18 to 42 stitches, and we can vary the stitch density as needed.
- The machine's normal speed is 3200 stitches per minute.
- Some machines have a mechanism that audibly signals, usually when the bobbin thread is below a certain level.
- This machine is primarily used on the edges of pockets, flaps, belt carriers, etc.
- Certain types of bar tack machines are used for sewing small decorative tucks and shapes.
Feed-off-arm machine
- The machine's name suggests the machine's shape, which tilts toward the feed mechanism.
- It is a double-needle machine used for making chain stitches. The needles are positioned at an angle and are provided with a device for lubricating the thread.
- It has lapped seam folders that are used to produce lapped seams or flat felt seams.
- The maximum speed ranges from 4500 to 5500 SPM (stitches per minute).
- It is used for side closings in women's clothing, and the production of stitches in knitted fabrics, including covering seams in heavy fabrics, is specifically done by this machine.
- Advanced machines are available with three needles and thread trimming and sucking devices.
Snaps Fixing Machine
- This machine is used to easily fix snaps (button clamps) to garments.
- It consists of four parts: a cap and socket for the outer part and a knob and post for the inner part.
- It is used to easily fix snaps by pressing action driven by air pressure.
- This machine is used to fix various types and sizes of straps.
- It is used to fix snaps to both women's and knitted garments.
Collar turning machine
- It is used to turn collars in mass production.
- There are two moving parts, and the collar is placed on one part and, with the help of the other part, the collar is successfully turned.
- It is used to maintain a sharp collar point.
- There are different types of machines such as manual, semi-automatic, and automatic machines.
- It saves time by avoiding the process of threading the collar to achieve a sharp point.
Embroidery machines
- This machine is used to create a variety of embroidery patterns on both woven and knitted fabrics.
- Different types of embroidery machines are used in the apparel industry depending on the requirements. Electronically controlled embroidery machines, microprocessor-controlled embroidery machines, and computerized embroidery machines are available.
- Advanced computerized embroidery machines can create a variety of embroidery stitches with different patterns with the highest quality and accuracy. They also deliver high production times in the shortest possible time.
- Advanced machines have up to twelve heads and use a long embroidery frame with 10 needles per head. With this, we can produce embroidery patterns up to 75 cm in length and 50 cm in width per head.
- A computerized embroidery machine can store up to 259,000 stitches and produce any type of embroidery pattern.
- Embroidery machines are now also used for cording stitches, couching, sequence work, etc.
- The maximum cost of a computerized machine will range from ₹50 lakh to ₹2 crore, depending on the specifications.
- Computerized embroidery machines mainly use three types of stitches: running stitch, satin stitch, and filling stitch.
- These machines have different frame sizes, i.e., 9", 12", 15", 18", and 25".
Types of Sewing Production Systems
Three types of production systems are followed in the garment industry. They are:
1. Group system or assembly system
2. Band system or conveyor system
3. Individual production system or piece rate system
Group System
In this type of system, sewing machines are arranged in groups, and each group will perform one operation for a garment.
For example, if one group is sewing the back and yoke of a shirt, the next group will perform the front placket for the shirt. Another group will perform assembly operations such as attaching the collar, attaching the sleeves, etc.
Band System
This system is widely used in the textile industry. Machines are arranged one after the other as shown in figure and form a band.
The first operator will perform the first operation on the garment, while the end of the band will complete the garment.
Individual Finishing System
Here, only one person sews the entire garment. In this system, wages are usually determined based on the number of garments sewn per day. Therefore, it is called the "piece rate system.
" The only advantage of this system is that it can achieve higher production. However, the disadvantages include poor quality, the need for skilled workers, and the possibility of disputes among workers.
Garment Finishing
Garment finishing primarily involves the processes of trimming, laundering, and packing.
Trimming
In this process, large hanging threads and small protruding threads are first removed manually using thread clippers. They are used to manually cut the large and small threads.
Laundering
In mass production, some buyers require washed garments. For this purpose, garments are manufactured with shrinkage allowances and then washed, pressed, and packaged.
Washing and drying machines are used in the laundry section for washing and drying operations. The entire process is commercially known as "laundry," and the following equipment is used for laundry.
1. Washing Machine
2. Hydro Extractors
3. Drying Machines
Packing
Packing is the process of presenting garments to the buyer in a well-preserved and secure condition.
The garments are individually pressed and packed, and then the individually packaged pieces are packed into cartons or containers.
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