A garment may be sleeveless or finished with sleeves. This largely depends on fashion, the season (summer garments are often sleeveless), etc.
Sleeves come in various styles. They differ in appearance and method of construction. This relates to the way the sleeve is attached to the outer garment and the way the sleeve is shaped and finished at the bottom.
Sleeves can be of varying lengths depending on the design of the garment. The bottom of the sleeve may be flared, gathered, or tapered. Finishing may be done by facing, binding, adding a sleeve band, or adding a cuff.
For a good fit, a long sleeve is shaped at the elbow. In some cases, darts or easy stitching are provided at the back. This is done to allow space for the elbow to bend without straining or tearing the fabric.
Three basic types of sleeves can be distinguished: set-in sleeves, raglan sleeves, and cut-on sleeves (kimono sleeves).
Set-in sleeves are cut and sewn separately and then resemble the armhole of the garment. Usually, the crown of the sleeve rests exactly on the shoulder line.
Some styles of garments have the shoulder portion overlapping so that the crown of the sleeve rests on the upper arm. The front of the crown of the sleeve has a deeper curve than the back.
Variations of Basic Sleeves and Sleeve Finish
A variety of sleeve styles can be developed from a basic sleeve pattern. Styles depend on various factors such as fabric, dress style, and fashion.
Designs can be achieved by manipulating the basic sleeve pattern itself. The most commonly used is the set-in sleeve manipulation.
Here, the basic pattern is either cut or trimmed to fit the desired style.
Set-in Sleeve Variation: Puff Sleeves
They are short in length. Medium- and light-weight fabrics are best suited for this style. There are three types of puff sleeves. In the first type, groups are formed at both the top and bottom.
The basic sleeve pattern is cut along the center line and on both sides. They are then varied to achieve greater width and gather at the top and bottom of the sleeve.
The highest point of the sleeve cap is raised 1.5 cm and a smooth curved line is drawn. Similarly, the bottom edge of the sleeve is reduced by 1 centimeter at the center point and a smooth curve is drawn.
The top and bottom edges are gathered at the perimeter of the armhole and sleeve round. It is then finished like a set-in sleeve.
With the second type of puff sleeve, only the bottom edge is gathered. The sleeve pattern is slitted from the edge upwards and then stretched to allow for fullness.
The sleeve is then lengthened by 3 to 5 cm at the bottom edge and given a smooth curve as shown. The bottom edge is gathered and finished with a band or bias binding.
Gathers can be created using elastic (explained below) The third variety gathers at the top end. The sleeve pattern is cut from the top edge to the bottom edge and stretched to allow for fullness, the crown of the sleeve is extended, and a smooth curved line is drawn.
The top section is gathered at the perimeter of the armhole and finished like a set-in sleeve.
Bishop sleeve
A variation of the second type of puff sleeve. Here, the sleeve is full-length or only three-quarters long. It is gathered at the bottom of the sleeve, set into a band or cuff.
The Leg-O-Mutton
The sleeve is a long sleeve, with a tight fit below the elbow and gathered at the top. The basic sleeve bodice is used for the upper portion.
Bell sleeve
Another variation of the puff sleeve. The bell sleeve is designed with more width at the bottom of the sleeve, but the material is not gathered. The basic sleeve pattern is slashed from the bottom upwards and spread open to achieve additional width.
The center bottom edge is slightly extended to create a bell shape. The bottom of the sleeve is finished with a narrow hem or a shaped facing.
Unlike other sleeves, the circular sleeve features no underarm seam. The lower section of the sleeve takes on a circular shape, resulting in a larger bottom circumference.
Notches placed on the sleeve crown and at the armhole help identify the front and back sections when attaching the sleeve to the armhole. The bottom edge is finished with a narrow hem.
The sleeve pattern is cut into four sections, positioned such that sections 1 and 3, and sections 2 and 4, are situated opposite one another.
The bottom edges of these sections are joined to form a circle. This increases the circumference of the sleeve bottom.
There is no alteration to the length or shape of the sleeve crown; however, the sections are arranged to create a circular form.
Sleeve Bottom Finishes
The bottom edges of sleeves can be finished in a variety of ways. The choice of finish depends on the style, sleeve length, and fabric type. These finishes may be executed using either the self-fabric or a contrasting fabric.
Sleeveless armholes are finished using shaped facings. This provides a smooth finish to the edge. The facing can be cut as a single piece, joined by a seam located at one end of the underarm.
However, it is typically cut in two sections—separate facings for the front and back armholes—which are then joined at the shoulder and underarm seams. A lightweight interfacing can be added to provide additional stability.
Hemming is the simplest and most widely used method for finishing straight sleeves. The raw edge of the sleeve is folded to the wrong side along the hemline and is typically hand-stitched to the interior of the sleeve.
Kimono Sleeve
A kimono sleeve, cut as an extension of the main bodice piece, can be either loose or close-fitting, depending on the sleeve's shoulder slope and the degree of underarm curve.
When this sleeve is cut to flow straight out from the neckline, with a generous 'armhole' opening, there is a soft drape under the arm.
When it is cut to conform to the curved shape around the shoulder and with a shallow armhole opening, the fit becomes closer; however, arm movement becomes more difficult.
Such a close fit usually requires a gusset; a typically triangular piece of fabric that is inserted into an underarm seam for comfort and ease of movement.
A well-made kimono sleeve has three characteristics:
- A gusset or reinforcement at the curve or angle of the underarm seam.
- No drawing or pulling in the upper arm area.
- No ripples or pulling of the upper sleeve seam.
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