Paper Patterns in Fashion Design: Importance, Types & Methods

A pattern can be defined as a model or replica of the various components of a garment. It can be made from paper or plastic. 

Paper is typically used to create patterns, as it is cheaper than plastic or other materials. In industries, thick paper or cardboard is often used instead of tissue paper for applications.

Importance of Paper Patterns

The following importance of paper patterns:

1. Essentially, patterns serve as a time-saving tool. If we cut a pattern, all garments of the same size can be cut from the same pattern. This saves us precious time by avoiding the drafting process for each garment. Furthermore, drafting directly onto the fabric is not easy. Paper patterns speed up the marking process.
2. We can preserve paper patterns and use them whenever we need them. For this, in industries, patterns are made using thick paper or cardboard.
3. Paper patterns are very useful for the "pattern grading" process. Using the pattern grading process, we can enlarge or reduce a base pattern from one size to another.
4. Paper patterns are helpful in creating pattern layouts. The pattern can be arranged across the open width of the fabric, and from this pattern layout, we can estimate the amount of fabric needed to make a garment. By using economical pattern layouts, we can reduce fabric consumption for a garment.
5. If a pattern doesn't fit someone, we can alter it to achieve a good fit.
6. Base patterns allow us to try new designs on them, resulting in beautiful garments. The basic pattern can be modified to suit different styles, and this technique is called "flat pattern designing."

Types of Paper Patterns

Paper patterns are of the following types: 

• Commercial Patterns
• Personal Patterns 
• Block Patterns

Commercial Patterns

They are also called "ready-made patterns."  Patterns prepared using standard measurements are called commercial patterns or ready-made patterns. 

Commercial patterns are readily available abroad. Many companies design their patterns after extensive research and testing them on models.

Commercial patterns standardize the process. Commercial patterns are available in a variety of sizes. Therefore, anyone can easily purchase a pattern in the appropriate size.

A commercial pattern has three main parts: the envelope, the instruction sheet, and the pattern issue. The envelope, which contains the other two components, is printed with a photo or drawings of the garment, as well as information needed to select the appropriate size pattern and purchase the correct amount of fabric and other details, such as fasteners. 

The front of the envelope contains various versions of the finished garment created from the pattern. The back of the envelope contains charts detailing the amount of fabric needed for each version. Size charts, recommended fabrics, and garment details are also provided.

The instruction sheet explains how to use the pattern and what the various pattern markings mean. 

Pattern markings are lines, dots, and other symbols printed on the pattern to provide information about cutting lines, seam lines, seam allowances, grain lines, hem allowances, and the position of buttons, button holes, darts, pleats, and tucks.  

The instruction sheet also provides cutting-out diagrams and construction details. The tissue sheet is printed with full-size pattern pieces. 

Single-size patterns contain only one size of pattern. Single-size patterns are printed with a single cutting line that is appropriate for the purchased size. 

Multi-size patterns are marked with lines for cutting into three or four different sizes. These patterns have cutting lines for different sizes printed on the same pattern piece. The lines for each size are labeled, and often drawn with a different type of line.

Custom tailoring has improved here, and most women know a little about tailoring. Therefore, no one wants to buy expensive ready-made patterns. 

However, large companies abroad don't take small orders. Therefore, women there buy ready-made patterns and sew their own garments. Most women don't know how to cut. Therefore, they buy these patterns and sew their garments accordingly.

 Advantages of Commercial Patterns

Commercial patterns save us time and effort. If our measurements fit a specific size, purchasing a commercial pattern is easier than designing one ourselves. 

If we don't know how to cut, using a ready-made pattern can create a well-fitting garment.

Disadvantages

Ready-made patterns don't provide a good fit without some pattern options if our measurements don't have the same proportions as standard figures. 

Pattern drafting is a more complex process than pattern drafting. Furthermore, commercial patterns are expensive.

Personal Patterns

Patterns prepared to personal or individual measurements are called "personal patterns." They are also known as custom patterns. 

If we know how to cut patterns, we can make our own patterns, which will provide a better fit than a ready-made pattern. This is much more economical and allows us to create our own designs.

Commersial and Personal Pattern Making Techniques

The following techniques are used to making commersial and personal pattern:

1. Drafting Method

2. Draping Method

3. Flat Pattern Designing

Drafting Method

The drafting method requires the actual measurements. Using these body measurements, we use appropriate pattern-making tools, such as the L square and French curve, to create the required pattern layout. This is a foolproof method.

Principles for Pattern Drafting

When preparing a pattern layout, the following principles should be followed:

1. Select a suitable paper for making the pattern that should not be too thin.
2. Use appropriate tools for accurate drafting, such as a long scale, L-type scale, set square, French curve, etc. Use a sharp pencil for precise, clean lines and accurate drafting.
3. Before preparing the pattern layout, check the measurements clearly and read the procedures and instructions carefully. Note down important points on a piece of paper.
4. Make a rough diagram before drafting. This will give an idea for drafting the pattern with perfection.
5. Before drafting, we need to decide on the amount of allowance for the required parts. To allow freedom of movement, ease of action, and comfort in wearing, the patterns prepared should be larger than the body measurements. To achieve this ease, allowance is made for free movement of the body along with the body measurements.
6. Seam allowances should be decided before preparing the pattern. Depending on the type of seam and stitching, we need to include seam allowances on the pattern outline.
7. If the pattern has a symmetrical design where the right and left sides are identical, we can only draw half of the pattern.  For asymmetrical design patterns, such as front, shirt back, shirt yoke, etc., a complete pattern layout should be prepared. For example, sleeves.
8. Check the draft before cutting the pattern. After preparing the pattern layout, the following details and information should be recorded and clearly marked on the pattern.

Draping Method

In the draping method, we drape the actual fabric onto the dress form and pin it along the required style lines. We then cut off the excess fabric along each body style line, such as the shoulder line, neckline, armhole, etc. 

After completing the process, the fabric is removed from the dress form and the pattern is traced from the cut fabric. This requires a lot of fabric and line work, and is an approximate method.

Flat Pattern Designing

Creating a pattern using an existing pattern is called "flat pattern designing."

There are two types of techniques.

1. Adaptation

2. Manipulation

Adaptation

Adaptation is the method of creating a basic style pattern from a block pattern. (e.g., a basic sleeve pattern from a sleeve block.)

Manipulation

Manipulation is the method of converting one style pattern into another style pattern, (e.g., a plain sleeve into a puff sleeve.) Two methods are commonly used in manipulation techniques. 

They are:

1. Slash and spread method
2. Slash and lap method

Slash and spread method

In the slash and spread method, the pattern is cut into the required number of equal parts and spread on a paper. 

A new pattern is created by marking the outline of the spread pattern (e.g., a puff sleeve to a puff sleeve).

Slash and lap method

In the slash and lap method, the pattern is divided into the required number of equal parts and overlapped. A new pattern is created from the outline markings of the spread pattern. (e.g., a flared skirt to a straight skirt.)

Block Pattern

A basic pattern that incorporates the actual body measurements and curves of a model or dress form is known as a block pattern.

Block pattern should fit body curves and shapes accurately with the correct dimensions. The following are the characteristics of a block pattern:

1. The block pattern should contain only the correct body measurements.
2. It should not include ease allowances. (Some people are also including ease allowances.)
3. It should not include seam allowances, loose allowances, flare allowances, etc.
4. It should not have any fullness except darts.
5. It should not have any design or style lines. A block pattern is also called a foundation pattern or sloper pattern.

Types of block patterns

The following types of block patterns are:

• Bodice Block
• Sleeve Block
• Skirt Block
• Trouser Block
• Shirt Block, etc

Block Pattern Making

When creating a block pattern, we need to keep the following things in mind:

Garment Balance

The block should have the proper balance of the garment. We must strictly adhere to the Center Front and Center Back lines. The pattern must fit precisely to the body's shape and proportions.

Ease Allowance

When drafting the layout for certain body block patterns, a minimum ease allowance is typically added; however, during the customization process, we must modify this ease allowance.

Drafting

We need to use all the necessary measurements and create a block pattern layout. Drafting should be done using appropriate pattern-making tools, such as French curves and 'L' squares.

Test Fit

After preparing the blocks, we need to drape them on a model or dummy to check the fit. The pattern should be altered to accommodate the modifications, and the final blocks should be prepared.

Work and safety precautions for making and cutting the paper pattern

1. The following safety precaution taken during making and cutting the paper pattern:
2. Measurements must be finalized before drawing the pattern layout on paper. Incomplete measurement information can lead to confusion.
3. The working area of the pattern drafter must be wide enough to accommodate the necessary adjustments to the pattern to avoid reworking the paper and correcting measurement errors.
4. Care must be taken to apply the correct measurements when preparing the pattern layout.
5. All draft lines (seam lines, fold lines, dart lines, etc.) must be clearly marked to avoid inaccurate cutting.
6. All incorrect lines must be erased to avoid confusion and subsequent damage.
7. After drafting, all measurements must be checked to ensure accuracy.
8. When cutting the drafted pattern, follow the outside edge of the seam line.
9. Slots must be made where seam lines and fold lines meet.