The invention of the sewing machine marked a major advancement in dressmaking, as it made stitching faster, resulted in more durable seams, and produced stitches of greater uniformity.
A key characteristic of machine stitching is the use of both an upper and a lower thread, which interlock with one another as the stitching progresses.
Various models of sewing machines are available in the market, including domestic models, tailor models, industrial models, portable models, and cabinet models.
When purchasing a sewing machine, opt for one manufactured by a reputable brand. These machines can be operated manually (by hand), via a treadle, or by an electric motor.
While a hand-operated machine is capable of producing quality work, it is slower than a treadle-operated machine, which has the advantage of leaving both hands free to manipulate the fabric.
An electric sewing machine is the ideal choice, as it is less strenuous and faster to use, while also leaving both hands free to guide the fabric. If you are interested in decorative stitching, you may choose a newer model equipped with decorative stitch attachments.
Basic parts of sewing machine and their Uses
Most parts are common to all sewing machines. Each machine has a so-called machine head and machine bed, while the stand and its parts are unique to a treadle sewing machine.
Spool pin
Its holds the spool of thread.
Thread guide
The thread guide positions the thread from the spool to the needle.
Tension Disc
Tension discs are simple mechanisms consisting of two concave discs placed side by side, with opposite sides facing each other.
The thread passes between them. The thread tension is adjusted by a spring and a nut, which increases or decreases the pressure on the discs, i.e., the thread.
Take-up lever
The take-up lever is fitted to the body of the arm, allowing it to move up and down from the front. The lever has a small hole at the outer end through which the thread passes.
This lever has two functions:
- To feed the thread to the needle
- To tighten the loop formed by the shuttle
Face Plate
The face plate is a removable side cover that provides access to the needle bar, pressure bar, and oiling points on the thread take-up.
Needle bar
The needle bar is a steel rod that holds the needle at one end with a clamp.
Presser foot
The presser foot is attached to the pressure bar and holds the fabric firmly in position when lowered.
Bobbin case
The bobbin case moves into position to hold the top thread and create the stitch as the needle is lowered into the bobbin chamber.
Presser foot lifter
The presser foot lifter is a lever attached to the presser bar to raise and lower the presser foot.
Stitch regulator
The stitch regulator controls the stitch length. Some regulators can be set to sew in reverse.
Bobbin winder
The bobbin winder allows the thread to be wound onto the bobbin. Some stop automatically when the bobbin is full.
Flywheel
When the flywheel is made to rotate, it serves as the machine's mechanism.
Stop motion screw
The stop motion screw is located in the center of the flywheel and engages and disengages the sewing mechanism.
Slide plate
The slide plate is a rectangular plate that can be slid open to remove or insert the bobbin case.
Needle plate
The needle plate or throat plate is a 1 cm circular plate with a hole in it to allow the needle to pass through.
Feed dog
The feed dog has a set of teeth mounted below the needle plate. This helps move the fabric forward during sewing.
Needles
There are many types of sewing machine needles. Needles are selected according to their purpose. Sizes depend primarily on the fabric composition and the sewing thread used.
The upper part of the needle is called the shank. The lower part is called the shaft. One side of the shank is flat and the other is rounded. The rounded side has a groove that guides the thread during stitching and prevents excessive friction.
The eye of the needle is located directly above the sharp point. It always extends along its length because the thread must pass diagonally through the needle lengthwise. Needles have different points; each is designed for a specific type of fabric.
The most commonly used needles feature a sharp point for woven fabrics; extra-fine points are used for twill, denim, and heavy leather fabrics; and ball-point needles are used for knits and stretch fabrics.
Needle sizes range from 9 to 19. When selecting a needle, remember that the finer the fabric and thread weight, the finer the needle should be.
Machine Care and Maintenance
Regular cleaning, oiling, and proper machine care ensure satisfactory stitching performance and extend the machine's lifespan. When not in use, keep your machine covered to prevent dust accumulation.
Cleaning
Before oiling any part of the machine, you should always remove accumulated lint, dust, and thread scraps. Use a small dry brush (or a toothbrush) and a soft cloth to remove dust and lint.
Use a sharp tool, such as a needle, to extract any pieces of thread or lint that cannot be removed with the brush. To clean the feed dogs, remove the machine's needle plate and clear away any lint deposits and dirt adhering to the feed mechanism.
To clean the shuttle race, remove the two screws holding the shuttle race assembly to the machine, remove the shuttle race, and clean its grooves of dirt, fluff, and loose pieces of thread.
Sometimes loose threads wrap around the treadle rivets and make the machine difficult to operate. You should remove any pieces of thread stuck in the wheel and any lint and dust stuck to the treadle part.
Oiling
Periodic oiling and lubricating the machine is essential. If the machine is used daily, oil it once a week. If you use it frequently, once a month should be sufficient.
To thoroughly oil the machine, remove the upper thread, needle plate, slide plate, faceplate, bobbin case, needle, and presser foot.
Apply special sewing machine oil to all oil holes and joints where one part rubs against another. When oiling, rotate the flywheel back and forth to help the oil flow to the moving parts.
After oiling the machine head, tilt the machine head back to apply oil to the points on the machine bed. The shuttle race is essential. On a treadle machine, the belt must be released before tilting the machine head back. Don't forget to oil the machine stand.
When the machine is completely oiled, wipe off any excess oil and run it slowly on a piece of waste material for several minutes. Before turning off the machine, place a piece of material under the pressure foot and lower the needle.
The cloth will absorb any excess oil that may escape through the machine and prevent oil stains from forming on your work when you use the machine.
If the machine is over-oiled, apply a drop of kerosene or gasoline to each oil hole and joint and run it vigorously for several minutes. Then wipe off any excess oil with a soft cloth and re-oil the machine. It will need a second oiling within a few hours of this treatment.
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