Necklines constitute a pivotal element of any garment. A beautiful and well-executed neckline will naturally draw attention, as the upper portion of a garment is the most immediately visible feature.
A wide variety of necklines are available, and when designing clothing, one must carefully select the appropriate type and shape of the neckline based on factors such as style, age, gender, and the specific occasion.
If a garment's bodice extends around the neck to form straps and a fastening mechanism, it is referred to as a "halter neck." In this style, the back typically features only a single band of fabric.
The Bateau, Slashed, and Sabrina styles are examples of wide necklines. The "one-shoulder" neckline features an asymmetrical design, wherein the garment is supported by a single strap resting on just one shoulder, leaving the other side bare.
If a neckline features a slit—either at the front or the back—that is finished and fastened from edge to edge, it is known as a "keyhole neckline." The edges of the neckline are typically secured using a button and a rouleau loop.
For decorative purposes, a scalloped effect is employed to create a "scalloped neckline." Occasionally, a slit containing an elastic insert is incorporated into the neckline; this style is termed an "inset neckline."
The "envelope" neckline features a wide opening where the back panel overlaps the front panel; this style is typically crafted from knitted fabric and finished with a fine ribbed trim.
This is why Neck edge finishing is generally considered crucial, as it influences the overall style of the garment and must flatter the wearer.
Neck edge finishing should be executed with meticulous attention to detail, as these features easily draw the eye. All neck designs can be considered variations of three main shapes: round, square, and V-shaped.
Different Neck Edge Finishing Methods
Various methods for finishing the edges of the neckline are provided below.
Facing
Facing is the method by which a piece of fabric is used to finish the raw edge on the wrong side of a garment. Facing can be done as bias facing or shaped facing.
Bias Facing
Bias facing is applied to a curved edge and is done with a strip. It is usually turned to the wrong side of the garment and will not be visible from the right side. If a decorative effect is desired, it is turned to the right side only.
When bias facing is applied to inward curves, it should be eased slightly during stitching (easing means keeping the bias strip slightly loose along the seam line); conversely, for outward curves, it should be stretched (since the circumference increases).
It is primarily applied to necklines, armholes, and the hemlines of skirts or sleeves.
Shaped Facing
Shaped facing can be of any width. It is cut to match the exact contour of the garment edge to which it is to be applied, and is typically cut on the same grain as that specific section of the garment.
It is frequently used to finish square or V-shaped necklines. Compared to bias facing, it is easier to apply and less specialized.
It is typically cut separately for the front and back sections. It can also be utilized for armholes (in sleeveless garments).
In this application, the facing must be aligned with the wrong side of the garment so that, once finished, it turns out onto the right side.
A topstitch is applied from the right side, positioned very close to the neckline seam; this step is crucial. It ensures that the facing lies flat against the neckline.
Expanded Facing
If the facing piece is cut as an extension of the garment (for example, at the front opening), it is called extended facing.
Piping
Piping is a method of finishing a decorative edge. It is cut from bias material. The piping is stitched between two layers of fabric, creating a flat welt along the edge. The piping can also be filled with cord to make the welt stronger and more distinctive.
Enclosing of Edges
This type of edge finishing can be done with straight or bias material.
Binding
Binding is used to fix and straighten raw edges or to add decorative trim to a garment. This technique also provides a neat finish for reversible garments.
It is used to finish necklines, armholes, sleeve edges, front closures, collars, cuffs, and seams. Ready-made bias binding strips can also be utilized.
Bias binding can be applied in two ways: Single binding is cut to a width that is double the desired finished width, plus two seam allowances.
The binding is manipulated differently on inner and outer curves, in contrast to how facings are handled; on inner curves, the bias is stretched, while on outer curves, it is eased in.
Double binding—also known as French binding—is typically used on sheer fabrics. In this method, the width of the binding strip is cut to be four to six times greater than the required finished width.
The binding strip is first folded and then applied to the garment. Once finished, it creates a corded effect.
Banding
Banding serves as an extension of a garment's raw edge—for instance, at the hemline or neckline. The width of the banding can vary according to the desired length.
When used at the hemline, it is cut along the same grain as the garment fabric; however, contrasting materials may also be used. When applying a bias-cut strip as banding to curved shapes, only a narrow width is typically utilized.
Factor Considered During Neck Edge Finishing
The following factors should be considered when finishing necklines.
- The design of the facing and collar should blend well with the design of the garment; that is, large and bold floral designs, checks, or stripes are not appropriate.
- The purpose of the dress is important when designing a neckline. For casual wear and uniforms, prominent decorative features are best avoided.
- The wearer's individual characteristics should be taken into account when choosing a neckline shape; the following combinations are appropriate:
- Round face - long pointed collar or V-neck
- Slim and long neck - standing collar or closed neck
- Wide face and short neck - long pointed collar or wide neck
- Long, narrow facing – wide gap between short collar points and points or closed necklines
Important Tips to Avoid Trouble While Sewing
- Notches should be provided on the inward work to avoid bulging at the edge or corner of the neckline.
- Top seam allowances should be done on the right side close to the neckline to avoid bulging at the edge of the right side neckline, and the shoulder seam allowance should be pressed open.
- On square and V-shaped necklines, trimming should be done at the corners or points. This is to avoid bulging and prepare for a flat set.
- If a narrow facing is used, it is wrapped with the bodice fabric. Be careful to grab only one thread from the garment section and not pull the thread too tightly. Otherwise, the stitches will be visible on the right side.
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