A tuck is a straight fold of fabric that is stitched evenly across the entire fold, across the grain. It may appear similar to a pleat, but some construction features differ.
A tuck is stitched the entire length, while a pleat is stitched horizontally at the top or only for a short length in the vertical direction.
A tuck also has a fold line and a placement line, and stitches are made parallel to the fold line along its entire length. A tuck is constructed similarly to a knife pleat, i.e., in one direction (except for a cross tuck).
The beauty of a tuck depends on its accuracy. It will look good only if the width of the tuck and the distance between the tucks are maintained uniformly.
The width of the tuck and the distance between the tucks depend on the desired design effect and the thickness of the fabric. Special design effects can be achieved by grouping the tucks.
Tucks are primarily used for decorative purposes. In some cases, they are used to shape the garment to the body (similar to a dart) or are used in children's clothing to allow for growth.
In rare cases, tucks are used to conceal seams in a garment during alterations. The seam will be visible on the wrong side of the garment, while the decorative tuck will be visible from the right side.
Tucks are usually folded onto the right side of the garment because they serve a decorative purpose. Dart tucks used for shaping are folded onto the wrong side for shaping.
Types of tucks
The following types of tucks are used in garments industry:
Plain tucks
Plain tucks are made in one direction. The width and spacing of tucks can vary depending on the desired effect.
If the space between tucks is equal to the depth of the tuck, meaning the fold of the tuck touches the stitch line of the previous one, they are called blind tucks.
Blind tucks
These can be considered a variation of plain tucks. Another variation of plain tucks is the pin tuck. As the name suggests, these are of a very narrow width—approximately the size of a pinhead. Only thin fabrics are suitable for pin tucks.
Cross tucks
Cross tucks: Stitched in both vertical and horizontal directions. The lengthwise tuck is sewn first, then the widthwise tuck is pressed in one direction before being sewn.
A tuck can be created to create a special decorative effect by forming it into a shell tuck. This tuck has a scalloped edge.
They can be created along one edge or in multiple rows. Thin and medium-weight fabrics are best suited for this purpose.
A group of blind tucks can be created to create a scalloped effect. For that purpose, the fold of the tuck should be slightly wider.
Tucks are first top-stitched in one direction; then, their folds are positioned in the opposite direction so that a straight stitch can be applied to the tucks once again.
This process is repeated at regular intervals along the entire length of the tuck. Lightweight and medium-weight fabrics are best suited for shell tucks and scalloped tucks.
Corded tucks
Corded tucks created by inserting a cord inside the fold. This makes the tucks more prominent. A zipper foot is required to stitch this type of tuck.
Note: When tucks are used as a symmetrical decorative element on a garment, the fold lines on both sides should either face toward the center front or be directed away from the center.
Dart tucks
Dart tucks are used to shape a garment. They can be formed along the shoulder line, at the front and back waist of the bodice, and on the front and back sections of lower garments.
They are used to provide fullness and are typically formed on the wrong side of the garment. In rare instances, they are formed on the right side for a decorative effect.
Difference between darts and dart tucks
The difference between darts and dart tucks can be described as follows:
- Dart tucks are narrower (about 0.5 cm).
- They are sewn in groups of 3 or 4 to achieve the desired shape.
- Dart tucks are the same width throughout, while darts taper towards the end.
Useful tools when sewing tucks
Some tools are useful when sewing tucks:
Gauge
A gauge made of cardboard helps you sew without marking stitch lines. The gauge length includes the width of the tuck and the space between the tucks.
The notch indicates the width of the tuck. If the gauge is placed with the left edge on the stitch line of the previous tuck and the right edge on the fold of the new tuck, the notch will indicate the position of the stitch line for the new tuck.
Tucker foot
The tucker foot is a time-saving tool for making tucks up to 2.5 cm wide. It is an additional attachment that replaces the presser foot for treadle and motorized sewing machines.
It helps achieve uniform tuck width and uniform tuck spacing in one operation. The tucker foot is equipped with two scales, from 0 to 8.
The smaller scale near the needle helps achieve uniform tuck width. The required tuck width is set by rotating the sliding plate with a screw.
While sewing, the fabric is guided between the two scales. Another screw near the needle controls the tuck spacing. First, set the tuck scale for the tuck width, then adjust the space scale to the required position.
The tucker foot performs two operations at once: it maintains the tuck width and also the distance between the tucks.
Edge stitcher
An edge stitcher is a special presser foot that is inserted into the machine in place of the standard presser foot.
It serves as a guide for sewing pin tucks, lace tucks, piped seams, and self-enclosed seams (such as French seams).
It consists of a series of slotted guides where the folded fabric is inserted. The slots are of different widths for different edge stitch distances.
Tucks can be made before or after the corresponding garment component is cut from the fabric.
Folding the tucks before the layout is done is the easiest method. The disadvantage of this method is that the edges have to be cut again. It also increases fabric wear.
The second method involves cutting and spreading the pattern. This provides extra space for folding the tucks after the component is cut.
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